HVAC Energy
Efficiency
Just like a vehicle, your home
comfort system requires routine maintenance to
keep it running at its best. Without routine
service, heating and cooling systems waste energy
and are more likely to break down. However with
the proper attention, they can keep you
comfortable year-round.
We specialize in proper service
to keep your system running. However, there are a
few basic things that homeowners can
Heating
Equipment
Heat pumps and oil-fired furnaces
and boilers need a yearly professional tune-up.
Gas-fired equipment burns cleaner; it can be
serviced every other year however yearly scheduled
maintenance is still ideal.
Step
1
A close inspection will uncover
leaks, soot, rust, rot, corroded electrical
contacts and frayed wires. In furnace (forced-air)
and boiler (hot-water) systems, the inspection
should also cover the chimney, ductwork or pipes,
dampers or valves, blower or pump, registers or
radiators, the fuel line and the gas meter or oil
tank, as well as every part of the furnace or
boiler itself.
Step 2
Next,
the system should be run through a full heating
cycle to ensure that it has plenty of combustion
air and chimney draft. Contractors use smoke
pencils to check for sufficient draft and also
test the air for carbon monoxide.
Step
3
Finally, it's time for the down and
dirty task of cleaning the burner and heat
exchanger to remove soot and other gunk that can
impede smooth operation. For the burner,
efficiency hinges on adjusting the flame to the
right size and color, adjusting the flow of gas or
changing the fuel filter in an oil-fired system. A
check of the heat pump should include an
inspection of the compressor, fan, indoor and
outdoor coils and refrigerant lines. Indoor and
outdoor coils should be cleaned, and the
refrigerant pressure should be checked. Low
pressure indicates a leak; to locate it,
contractors feed tinted refrigerant into the loop
and go over it with an electronic detector.
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Blowers
Tuning up the
distribution side of a forced-air system starts
with the blower. The axle should be lubricated;
blades cleaned and lower motor checked to insure
the unit isn't being overloaded. The fan belt
should be adjusted so it deflects no more than an
inch when pressed. Every accessible joint in the
ductwork should be sealed with mastic or
UL-approved duct tapes. Any ducts that run outside
the heated space should be insulated. On a
hot-water system, the expansion tank should be
drained, the circulating pump cleaned and
lubricated and air bled out of the radiators.
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Thermostats
While
thermostats rarely fail outright, they can degrade
over time as mechanical parts stick or lose their
calibration. Older units will send faulty signals
if they've been knocked out of level or have dirty
switches. To recalibrate an older unit, use a
wrench to adjust the nut on the back of the
mercury switch until it turns the system on and,
using a room thermometer, set it to the correct
temperature. Modern electronic thermostats, sealed
at the factory to keep out dust and grime, rarely
need adjusting. However, whether your thermostat
is old or young, the hole where the thermostat
wire comes through the wall needs to be caulked,
or a draft could trick it into thinking the room
is warmer or colder than it really is.
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Humidifiers
A neglected
in-duct humidifier can breed mildew and bacteria,
not to mention add too much moisture to a house. A
common mistake with humidifiers is leaving them on
after the heating season ends. Don't forget to
pull the plug, shut the water valve and drain the
unit. A unit with a water reservoir should be
drained and cleaned with white vinegar, a mix of
one part chlorine bleach to eight parts water or
muriatic acid. Mist-type humidifiers also require
regular cleaning to remove mineral deposits.
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Filters
Most houses with
forced-air furnaces have a standard furnace filter
made from loosely woven spun-glass fibers designed
to keep it and its ductwork clean. Unfortunately,
they don't improve indoor air quality. That takes
a media filter, which sits in between the main
return duct and the blower cabinet. Made of a
deeply pleated, paper-like material, media filters
are at least seven times better than a standard
filter at removing dust and other particles. An
upgrade to a pleated media filter will cleanse the
air of everything from insecticide dust to flu
viruses.
Compressed, media filters are
usually no wider than six inches, but the pleated
material can cover up to 75 square feet when
stretched out. This increased area of filtration
accounts for the filter's long life, which can
exceed two years. The only drawback to a media
filter is its tight weave, which can restrict a
furnace's ability to blow air through the house.
To insure a steady, strong airflow through the
house, choose a filter that matches your blower's
capacity.
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